Wanganui valley tracks
Located in Harihari area in the West Coast region
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Introduction
The Wanganui River valley provides rugged backcountry opportunities for those with suitable skills and experience.Dog access
The Wanganui valley contains a good network of tramping tracks and routes. They are suitable for well-equipped and experienced backcountry trampers and climbers only.
Times given are guides only and will vary greatly with fitness and weather conditions. Tramping in this area is very demanding and you should allow plenty of time to reach planned destinations. The best seasons to go are summer and autumn.
The tramping tracks are well marked with orange plastic markers – windfalls are cleared annually and the tracks are scrub cut every three years. The routes are also well marked and windfalls are cleared every two years.
Road end – Hunters Hut
Time: 5 hr
The track begins by crossing a couple of paddocks and joining the access road to the rock quarry. The track climbs up the quarry before dropping back down to a terrace.
After travelling through a section of gorse and scrub, and a rocky beach, the track enters a bush section that carries through to Shearers Flat. From this point follow the riverbed up to Hendes Creek. A three-wire bridge across Hendes Creek was built in 2013. From here the track heads up to Mystie Flat, before another riverbed section.
The track crosses a small flat, before entering the bush again. After Steep Creek, riverbed and flats are crossed before the track climbs up and over Annoyance Bluff. From here up to the cableway across the Wanganui River, the track traverses Jones Flat. Ensure that you follow the operating instructions on the cableway as improper use could cause injury. Once across the cableway, an easy 10 min walk downstream on the true left bank takes you to Hunters Hut (six bunks).
See guidance on using the cableway under 'Know before you go'.
Lambert Tops Route
Time: 4 hr to bush edge from Hunters Hut
The route to the Lambert Tops was re-opened in 2008 and is now maintained. Follow the Gorge Track from Hunters Hut to the Lambert River. The Lambert River bridge was destroyed in 2018. Crossing on foot may be possible in low conditions. Do not attempt to cross if you are inexperienced or when the river is high.
Follow the track to the sign-posted junction before turning left and climbing steeply up a ridgeline, following a spur that runs alongside Lambert Gorge. The route provides access into the Adams Wilderness Area and numerous hard mountaineering trips are possible.
The marked route ends at the two yellow and orange deer posts. Travel beyond this point is suitable only for those experienced in alpine travel.
Blue Lookout Route
Time: 3 hr 30 min to bush edge from Hunters Hut
The route to Blue Lookout was re-opened in 2008 and is now maintained. From Hunters Hut follow the track towards the Lambert River. The route to Blue Lookout is sign-posted at Benighted Creek.
Follow the creek upstream for approximately 500 m and look for the orange marker on the true left of the creek. The route heads steeply up through stunted forest, before opening out to subalpine scrub and huge rock slabs. This route also provides access into the Adams Wilderness Area.
The marked route ends at the two yellow and orange deer posts. Travel beyond this point is suitable only for those experienced in alpine travel.
Hunters Hut – Smyth Hut tramping track
Time: 6 hr
The tramping track to Smyth Hut is on the true left of the Wanganui River. Access is difficult due to sustained flood damage.
At Poker Bluff the track climbs high above the bluff before dropping steeply down in to the riverbed again further upstream. From here the track up to Devastation Creek follows the river edge all the way. There are sections of track over two small bluffs, and these are marked at each end by large orange markers.
The last section of track starts just downstream of Devastation Creek. Cross the creek and follow the markers as a guide to meet up with the track upstream again. This area is quite changeable so take care and follow the markers. The track then climbs around steep bush hillsides and slips, and includes several short beach sections over huge boulders, which must be negotiated.
Smyth Hut (six bunks) is perched on a terrace opposite the Smyth River. There is no longer a swing bridge across the Wanganui River. This was destroyed in 2013 and is unlikely to be replaced.
Harihari is 72 km southeast of Hokitika on SH6.
Access is 8 km north of Harihari on SH6 (on the northern side of the Wanganui River bridge) where a small side road takes you to the start of the track. Due to erosion of the road, you need to park your vehicle by the powerhouse and continue on foot.
Access
Like the nearby Whataroa, Butler and Perth valleys, the Wanganui valley saw the construction of huts, swing bridges and tracks during the 1970s. These enabled easier foot access up the valley, mostly for wild animal management by the NZ Forest Service. Access is still restricted during periods of heavy rain, when many unbridged side creeks become uncrossable.
NZTOP50 maps: BW17 Harihari, BW18 Whitcombe Pass
Hazards
Hazards include flooded rivers, rockfall and avalanche.
This trip should not be attempted when it is raining, rain is forecast or the river is running high.
If you are travelling beyond the snowline then make sure you check avalanche conditions, are sufficiently equipped and experienced to assess the conditions and choose a safe path through avalanche terrain.
Weather
- The climate in Westland mountain areas is extreme and variable.
- Rainfall is generally over 5000 mm per annum and can occur for days on end at any time of the year.
- Snow can occur during any season.
- Rivers can rise and fall rapidly during and following rain but can also remain high for days especially when fed by snow-melt from large snow-fields or glaciers.
Safety is your responsibility
- Check the latest conditions at the Westland Tai Poutini National Park Visitor Centre in Franz Josef before leaving – conditions can change rapidly.
- Carry a personal locator beacon and fill in the hut books.
- Note: True left and true right refer to the side of the valley or river when facing and looking downstream.
Stay safe when crossing rivers
If you plan to cross unbridged rivers, know how to cross safely and be prepared for if you cannot cross.
Do not cross if the river is flooded, you cannot find safe entry and exit points or are unsure it’s safe. Turn back or wait for the river to drop. If in doubt, stay out.
Using the cableway
A cableway is used to cross rivers on this trip. Take time to read the on-site instructions and familiarise yourself with the operation of the cableway before crossing
Use of this cableway carries risks, so follow the operating instructions carefully.
It is recommended that you do not use this cableway unless part of a larger party or carrying a personal locator beacon (PLB).
Never place your hands on main cable, and keep hands, clothing and long hair clear of all wheels.
In the event of an emergency where the carriage becomes stuck, remain where you are and activate your PLB or have your party seek help.
The Wanganui River catchment has an area of approximately 40,000 ha and offers hunters, trampers, kayakers and mountaineers challenging terrain in an impressive West Coast river valley.
About the valleys
The forest is typical of the central Westland beech gap with a canopy dominated by southern rātā, kāmahi, Quintinia/tāwheowheo and Hall's tōtara. Rimu is locally common at lower altitudes. The forest grades into a zone of dense subalpine scrub which includes a mix of Dracopyllum and Olearia species.
Above this are extensive tussock grasslands, herb fields, bare rock and ice. There has been no possum control undertaken by DOC in this catchment, and the effects of browsing by the uncontrolled possum population can be seen in the extensive canopy dieback of species such as southern rātā and Halls tōtara. This is especially evident when compared to the nearby Whataroa valley where possum control is undertaken and the forest remains healthy.
Hot pools
Impressive hot pools can be found nestled amongst massive boulders in the riverbed near Smyth Hut. Follow the track back downstream for approximately five minutes from the hut, where a short, marked side-track heads down through the bush.
The pools are in a small creek/flood channel spread across a short stretch upstream from where the track emerges. Several pools, ranging in size from small one- or two-person pools up to larger pools accommodating around six people, offer a relaxing reward with stunning alpine views for those who visit.
Amethyst hot springs are about 15 min walk from the road-end car park. These pools are easily flooded by the main river and therefore often need to be dug out. Make sure you have a shovel with you. The pools provide a relaxing end to a long trip in the hills.
Hunting
In the Wanganui valley you can find red deer, tahr and chamois, as well as a few feral goats in the lower section.
Chamois can be found in most of the river’s tributaries from the low level to the alpine herb fields. The higher concentrations of tahr are found in the Adams Wilderness Area above Hunters Hut, with groups also around the head of the river near Smyth Hut. Red deer are found throughout the catchment. Good trophies of all three species may be taken in the Wanganui.
Hunters must obtain a hunting permit prior to their trip and carry this with them at all times.
Stay safe in the outdoors
- Choose the right trip for you. Learn about the route and make sure you have the skills for it.
- Understand the weather. Check weather forecasts.
- Pack warm clothes and extra food. Check gear lists.
- Share your plans and take ways to get help. Share directly or use the Outdoor Intentions form or Plan My Walk. Take a distress beacon.
- Take care of yourself and each other.
Contacts
| Westland Tai Poutini National Park Visitor Centre | |
|---|---|
| Phone | +64 3 752 0360 |
| westlandnpvc@doc.govt.nz | |
| Address | 69 Cron Street Franz Josef Glacier 7856 |
| Hours | Visitor centre hours and services |