Whanganui Journey

The Whanganui Journey is a 145 km canoe trip down the Whanganui River in the central North Island. You can also do shorter trips.

Trip style options

This trip is very different to other Great Walks – it’s a canoe trip, not a hike. Think carefully about whether you have the skills and experience needed. 

Guided paddling trips

Many businesses run guided paddling trips. These are an excellent option for anyone, and we strongly recommend that less experienced or solo travellers take the guided option rather than paddling independently.

Unguided paddling trips

You can hire canoes and paddle the trip without a guide, but this is only suitable for people with canoeing skills and experience.

To paddle the Whanganui Journey without a guide, you should:

• be a confident swimmer
• have experience in a canoe – this is not a trip for beginners
• be fit enough to paddle for 6 to 7 hours in a day (in low river flows this will be 8+ hours)
• be over the age of 10
• have at least two people in your group, plus enough adults to look after any children and teens if something goes wrong.

If you aren’t an experienced canoe user or are travelling alone, book a guided trip instead. If you can’t swim or aren’t fit enough, don’t risk paddling.

Jet boat tours

You can experience part of the Whanganui Journey and the Bridge to Nowhere without going in a canoe, by taking a jet boat trip. This is a great option for people short on time or who do not have the skills or fitness to canoe the river. Many businesses run jet boat trips.

Trip length options

You can paddle all or part of the Whanganui Journey:

• The full Whanganui Journey is 145 km, from Taumarunui to Pipiriki. It takes an average of 5 days to canoe.
• A popular shorter version is 88 km, from Whakahoro to Pipiriki. This is the most scenic section of the river and takes an average of 3 days to canoe.
• Businesses offer various 2-day and 1-day trips on sections of the river, some including jet boat trips.

Taumarunui to Ohinepane Campsite

Distance: 22 km
Time: 3–5 hours 

• Ngāhuinga (Cherry Grove), Taumarunui to Ohinepane Campsite – 22 km

Start at Ngāhuinga (Cherry Grove) Domain, off Cherry Grove Road in Taumarunui. Travelling the upper reaches of the Whanganui River, you’ll pass through a mixture of farmland and native bush, with plenty of rapids.

Ohinepane Campsite to Whakahoro

Distance: 35 km
Time: 6–8 hours

• Ohinepane Campsite to Poukaria Campsite – 14 km
• Poukaria to Maharanui Campsite – 17 km
• Maharanui to Whakahoro Campsite and Whakahoro Bunkroom – 4 km

Ohinepane Campsite can be accessed from River Road SH43 as well as from the river. From here, you'll paddle deeper into a rich and rugged landscape. Farms become fewer, native forest dominates and the hills rise. On the way you will pass Poukaria Campsite (a great spot to stop for lunch) and Maharanui Campsite. Take a short trip up the Ōhura River to see the Ōhura Falls.

Whakahoro to John Coull Hut

Distance: 37.5 km
Time: 7–9 hours

• Whakahoro to Mangapapa Campsite – 11 km
• Mangapapa to Ohauora Campsite – 16 km
• Ohauora to John Coull Hut – 10.5 km

Whakahoro is the last road access point before the end of the Whanganui Journey at Pipiriki. Many people start their trip here.

You'll paddle through towering gorges, the sides dripping with moss and ferns. After heavy rain, there are numerous waterfalls. Long stretches of the river are calm and still, with mirror-like reflections, and in other sections there are rapids.

Past Mangapapa Campsite, take a long loop around the Kirikiriroa Peninsula, pass the Tarepokiore (whirlpool) rapid and then the large overhang known as Tamatea's Cave. Do not enter the cave as it is wāhi tapu (a sacred place).

Ōtaihanga Reach leads you to your overnight stop at John Coull Hut and Campsite.

You may see long-tailed bats fluttering overhead at dusk.

John Coull Hut to Tīeke Kāinga

Distance: 29 km
Time: 7–9 hours

• John Coull Hut to Mangawaiiti Campsite – 9.5 km
• Mangawaiiti to Mangapurua Campsite – 9 km
• Mangapurua to Tīeke Kāinga – 10.5 km

On this section, you'll continue your journey through deep gorges and past stunning native forest. The Tāngarākau and Whangamōmona rivers join the Whanganui on this stretch. Perched high above the river, Mangawaiiti is an attractive spot to camp or stop for lunch.

Continue your trip downstream past the Mangapurua Landing, where you can stop and walk to the iconic Bridge to Nowhere. The Bridge to Nowhere Walk (3km, 1 hour 30 mins return, shared use with cyclists) leads to an abandoned bridge, one of the few remainders of the Mangapurua Valley farm settlement.

Be careful at Mangapurua Landing – it is very slippery when the rock is wet and can be crowded with canoes and boats.

Afterwards, continue to Tīeke Kāinga, which is a functioning marae as well as a hut – read the Tīeke Kāinga information and tikanga (protocol). This is a unique cultural experience.

There is alternative hut accommodation at Puketotara Hut on the Matemateaonga Range, a 1 hour 30 min hike up a track opposite Tīeke Kāinga.

Tīeke Kāinga to Pipiriki

Distance: 21.5 km
Time: 4–6 hours

• Tieke to Ngaporo Campsite – 12.5 km
• Ngaporo to Pipiriki – 9 km

You'll pass the scenic gorge of the Manganui o te Ao River and several large rapids, including the Ngāporo and Autapu rapids.

Through the day, you'll see the landscape changing. You leave the deep gorges behind and native forest gives way to farmland. The Whanganui Journey ends at Pipiriki village. 

Road access to the Whanganui Journey is from these places:

• Ngā Huinga (Cherry Grove) Domain, Taumarunui.
• Ohinepane Campsite, accessed from Whanganui River Road (State Highway 43).
• Whakahoro, accessed from Oio Road. Turn off State Highway 4 near Ōwhango onto Oio Road. Follow Oio Road for around 43km to Whakahoro. This road is rough, narrow and winding – drive with care and plan plenty of time.
• Pipiriki is the usual end of the Whanganui Journey. Access Pipiriki from Whanganui by following Whanganui River Road (around 76km), or from Raetihi on State Highway 4 by following the Pipiriki Raetihi Road (around 27km).

Equipment hire, services, food and transport can be found in the towns near these access routes.

Te Awa Tupua – a living being

DOC encourages visitors on the awa to familiarise themselves with Te Awa Tupua - The Whanganui River – a living being that nourishes and sustains the land and the people both physically and spiritually from the Mountains to the Sea.  

Before you go

Take these important steps before you start the Whanganui Journey:

• Understand how to use your canoe and practice. Make sure you know and have practiced how to pack it, how to navigate rapids and obstacles, and what to do if you fall out. This will help keep you safe on the river.
• Carry a distress beacon so you can signal for help if you need it.  Once on the Whanganui Awa (river), there is no cell phone reception.
  More about distress beacons.

You should also do the following:

• Check the weather before you go. Do not canoe if the river is flooding, rising, or predicted to flood. Very low flow will also make the trip more difficult, as paddling is harder and more obstacles will be exposed.
  Weather forecast for Whanganui National Park.
• Pack plenty of warm, quick-drying clothes and extra food. It can be very cold and you need to be ready to stay an extra night if the river rises.
  What to take on the Whanganui Journey.
• Wear bright clothing, so you’re more visible to boats
• Pack what you need to boil or treat water –the water at huts and campsites is not treated.
• Pack antihistamines if you’re allergic to wasps – they’re especially common from January to May.

When you're on the river

Stay safe by always wearing a life jacket. If you fall out, it could save your life.

Do not drink alcohol, for your safety and out of respect for the river.

Stay on the true right whenever possible. The true right is the right hand side when facing downstream.

Be aware of jet boats and know what to do. This is essential for a safe trip.

When a jet boat approaches:

1. Move to the right hand side of the river, unless you’re already close to the other side. If you’re close to the left, stick to the left – don’t paddle across the path of the approaching boat.
2. Stop or back-paddle, so the jet boat can get away from you as quickly as possible.
3. Turn at right angle to the wake – this reduces how bumpy it will feel.
   
   

Crafts travelling up river must give way to crafts travelling down the river. However, jet boats in rapids cannot slow down or stop.

Keep an eye on the weather and the river. If the river starts rising or is in flood, stay at your campground or hut until the river levels drop. You won’t be charged for staying an extra night due to high river levels. Rivers can rise overnight even if it’s not raining where you are, so tie your canoe up securely.

Leave enough time to reach your next hut or campsite in daylight. It is hard to find them in the dark. Allow extra time if it’s windy as canoeing into the wind can be slow and tiring.

Watch carefully for campsites and huts. If you go past them you may not be able to paddle back.

More ways to stay safe in the outdoors.

Respect nature and culture

Many sites are of high cultural significance – please respect them. Avoid alcohol use or smoking while on the Awa or at Tīeke Marae/Kāinga.

Protect nature while on the Whanganui Journey by:

• camping only at designated camp sites
• taking all your rubbish away with you
• following all fire restrictions and not lighting any open fires.
• using the toilets provided
• keeping soap and detergents out of the water
• leaving dogs or any other animals at home
• not hunting within the river trench
• leaving native plants and animals alone – enjoy them from afar.

Huts on the Whanganui Journey don't have toilet paper. Remember to take this with you.

Equipment unique to Whanganui Journey

These items can be hired as a package from local suppliers.

• Life-jacket
• Kayak or Canadian canoe
• Paddles – include a spare
• Plastic drums/barrels or equivalent for storing food, dry clothes and personal equipment
• Dry bags

Personal equipment

• Small backpack for side trips
• Sleeping bag – 3–4 season
• First aid kit including blister treatment materials - see Mountain Safety Council first aid advice
• Survival kit including survival blanket, whistle, paper, pencil, high energy snack food
• Navigation aids (e.g. map, compass, GPS)
• Torch/flashlight and spare batteries
• Rubbish bag
• Booking confirmation and ID
• Earplugs for communal bunkrooms
• An emergency shelter
• A distress beacon

Cooking and food equipment

• Drink bottle – 1–2 litre capacity
• Eating and cooking utensils – knife, fork, spoon, plate, cup, pot/pan/billy, cleaning kit, tea towel. Check individual huts for what cooking facilities are provided.
• Matches or lighter in waterproof container
• A way to prepare your food and treat your drinking water, in case you do not reach your planned hut/campsite and need to spend an unexpected night out

Toiletries

• Toilet paper (this is not provided at huts and campsites)
• Toiletries, including insect repellent, sunscreen, and personal medication, for example, antihistamine for allergy to wasp stings
• Use a toilet when you see one and be prepared with a backup toilet option
• Information about menstruation in the backcountry

If camping

• Tent
• Sleeping mat
• Ground sheet
• Gas cooker

Clothing

• For multi-day trips you'll need at least one set of clothes to travel in and another dry set to change into at night. 
• Sandals or aqua shoes
• Walking shoes
• Socks – wool or polypropylene
• Shorts – quick dry material
• Shirt – wool or polypropylene
• Under layers, top and bottom – wool or polypropylene
• Mid-layers – wool or polar fleece
• Raincoat – waterproof, windproof with hood
• Overtrousers – wind and waterproof
• Warm hat and gloves
• Sunhat and sunglasses
• Extra socks, underwear, shirt/lightweight jersey

Demin, cotton and hiking boots are not suitable for canoeing in.

Optional

• Lightweight shoes for inside the huts
• Fire starters 

Food

You cannot buy food at the huts or campsites. Carry all the meals and snacks you will need, plus some spare, and a water bottle. We recommend food that is lightweight, fast cooking and high in energy value.

We do not provide emergency food in huts. You will need to carry emergency food supplies in case you are delayed by weather or flooding.

Store your food in a rodent-proof container or bag. This is especially important if you are camping.

Nature and conservation

The land surrounding the river is only about one million years old. Formed of soft sandstone and mudstone (papa) from the ocean-bed, it has been eroded by water to form sharp ridges, deep gorges, sheer papa cliffs and waterfalls.

Over this land has grown a broadleaf-podocarp forest of rata, rewarewa, rimu, tawa, kamahi and kowhai with beech dominant on the ridge tops. Tree ferns and plants that cling to the steep riverbanks are very distinctive.

Bird species such as kereru (native pigeon), tiwaiwaka (fantail), tui, toutouwai (robin), riroriro (grey warbler) and miromiro (tomtit) are often seen and heard. The call of the brown kiwi can often be heard at night. The river is rich in eels, lamprey, species of galaxiid (a group of native fish species including whitebait and kokopu), koura (freshwater crayfish) and black flounder.

History and culture

Māori cultivated the sheltered terraces and built elaborate eel weirs along river channels where eels and lamprey were known to converge. Every bend of the river had kaitiaki (guardian) which controlled the mauri (life force) of that place. The mana (prestige) of a settlement depended upon the way in which food supplies and living areas were looked after for the benefit of the tribe and visitors.

Te Atihaunui-a-Paparangi people settled the valley from 1100 AD. In time the river became linked by a series of pa which were later called 'the plaited fibres of Hinengakau'.

The first major European influence arrived with missionaries in the 1840s. In 1891 a regular riverboat service began carrying passengers, mail and freight to the European settlers on the river between Taumarunui and Pipiriki and thriving tourist trade soon began between Mt Ruapehu and Wanganui.

The main riverboat trade ceased in the 1920s due to better roads, a main trunk railway and the development of other tourist attractions around the country, although riverboats were still operating in the late 1950s.

From May to September, there are often high river levels, very cold water and wet weather – only go if you are very experienced in canoeing remote New Zealand rivers in winter.

Expect challenging conditions

The winter environment in Whanganui National Park is very cold and wet, with short daylight hours. The river level is much higher than in summer and the water is very cold.

Be totally self-sufficient and experienced

The Whanganui River journey should only be attempted out of the Great Walks season by people who are very experienced in canoeing remote New Zealand rivers in winter.

You will need to be independent and self-sufficient, have a full understanding of the safety risks and be prepared for extremely cold conditions. Always carry a distress beacon.

Hut facilities are reduced

Gas cookers are not provided – you need to bring your own cooking stove. There are no hut rangers and only limited water. Huts are not stocked with firewood.